In this era of show-and-tell skin care that is 2022—when sharing an acupuncture facial session on Instagram is as common as an #OOTD—there’s a good chance you’ve heard of micro-needling. The procedure, which involves inserting fine short needles into the skin, can help diminish the appearance of acne scars, wrinkles, and even some stretch marks when performed by a trained expert. And while the idea can sound slightly scary, New York City-based dermatologist and Mohs surgeon Dr. Mary Stevenson explains why it’s really no big deal. Here, everything you’ve ever wanted to know about the transformative treatment.
What is micro-needling?
To begin, Stevenson clarifies the difference between at-home micro-needling and the in-office procedure. “In general,” she says, “[at home methods] are less effective.” In a doctor’s office, however, the treatment has been proven to help skin’s overall texture and stimulate collagen production. “The needles range from 0.5–2.5 mm and rotate over the skin from a pen-like device, which creates tiny wounds that breach the stratum corneum—the top-most layer of the skin—to reach the epidermis and deeper dermis,” she explains. “If we are able to create tiny controlled injuries, then we are able to promote collagen formation,” which in turn allows the skin to remain tighter and thicker as we age. The procedure is often paired with a topical application of platelet rich plasma, or PRP, which helps speed up healing.
What are the benefits of micro-needling?
“Micro-needling can be used to help with a variety of concerns,” Stevenson explains. “The treatment can minimize pore size and improve skin quality and texture,” plus help reduce the appearance of acne scars, stretch marks, and even fine lines. Aesthetic nurse practitioner Dr. Anne Marie Fombu builds on this: “I always recommend micro-needling for reducing the appearance of enlarged pores, fine lines, wrinkled “crepey” skin, mild scars (especially from acne or burns), hyperpigmentation and stretch marks.”
Can I DIY micro-needling at home?
There are many at-home micro-needling tools on the market which, over time, can have skin-brightening and tightening effects. But, Stevenson explains, “at-home devices do not go as deep as in-office procedures,” which makes them less effective.
Still, according to board-certified Dr. Dendy Engleman, an at-home treatment could still be beneficial for milder concerns, especially to supplement in between in-office appointments. “While at-home micro-needling is effective, especially with consistent use over time, the technique only works for mild superficial scars and lines—it doesn’t work miracles,” she says. “Since the needles on an at-home device are smaller and the treatments are milder than what is performed in-office, at-home micro-needling can take several months to see results. However, it is a great practice to incorporate into your routine—staying consistent with it will pay off in the long run. It’s also a great way to supplement micro-needling in between in-office appointments.”
Does it work?
“Yes,” Stevenson says, “when used for the right considerations and in qualified hands, such as a board-certified dermatologist, it really works.” However, she adds, it’s not a one-stop-shop procedure. “It often requires a series of treatments, and in my own practice, I often use it in combination with other technologies to have the best possible improvement in things like acne scars and stretch marks.” 
Is micro-needling safe for all skin tones?
According to Fombu, the answer is yes. “Some people of color worry about the procedure because darker skin tones can be damaged more easily by any skin trauma,” she begins. “Having a pen-like device puncture your skin may be intimidating, but rest assured, only the superficial layer of your skin—the dermis—is being pierced. With that, these punctures are microscopic. They do not cut deep into the skin or create scarring. Micro-needling is a safe, simple, and effective way to yield beautiful skin results.”
Will it hurt?
“Many patients find micro-needling with PRP to feel like a little buzzing over their skin with perhaps a bit of sensitivity on the upper lip or forehead,” Stevenson explains. Most, however, “leave feeling like they had the best facial ever.” Afterward, patients may experience red skin and slight swelling. “By nighttime,” she says, “you will look back to normal or mildly pink, with minimal downtime.”
How many treatments are required?
The number of micro-needling treatments all depends on the specific area targeted. “For micro-needling with PRP I usually recommend a series of two to three treatments to begin with,” Stevenson says, adding she will space out every four weeks. “I want to get to a place where you feel great about your skin and then maintain it.”
What is an ideal home micro-needling skin-care routine?
“Whether micro-needling at home or with your dermatologist, the treatment can cause swelling and redness,” says Stef Rippenbaum, board-certified nurse practitioner at New York City wellness clinic Modern Age. “There are several ways to minimize side effects. Use only gentle products afterward that do not contain active ingredients such as AHA/BHA, retinol, or salicylic acids.” She continues that a gentle cleanser, hyaluronic acid, and nourishing moisturizer are ideal for recovery, recommending waiting 10 days to reintroduce retinoids into your regimen and always wearing SPF. “Additionally, avoid makeup for 24 hours post-treatment and try to avoid excessive heat for 2 days as well. Sweating, hot showers, saunas, and exercise are all no’s [during this period].”
“I recommend using an at-home micro-needling device in the evening, in order to let the skin, heal overnight and prevent any premature exposure to bacteria, pollutants, environmental damage, et cetera,” instructs Engelman. First, she’d cleanse gentle formula, rinse, and pat dry. “Then use the micro-needling device as directed—up and down, left to right. [Following], I like to apply a serum with peptides and essential growth factors. Finally, lock in moisture with a restorative moisturizer.
Via: Byrdie.com
