If you spend more time sitting in the salon chair than you do coiffing hair behind it, you might think your colorist simply glances at a color chart before choosing your next ultra-flattering shade. However, there’s a lot of knowledge behind every formula they mix, even if they make each decision, suggestion and technique look utterly effortless.
And, while we can’t lift the lid on every secret your stylist has up their sleeve, we’re giving you a little more insight into how the Wella hair color charts are used. Hair lovers: consider this your chance to demystify the salon experience and, colorists, read on to brush up on the skills you’ve already expertly honed…
- THE COLOR THEORY
To predict the finished look of every color transformation, colorists use a simple equation:
Hair’s starting point + color chosen = end result
Now, you know what ‘color chosen’ means – it’s the desired hair hue – while the ‘starting point’ is a combination of the hair history and the underlying pigment. Let’s break each of them down…
HAIR HISTORY
Colorists look at the processes your hair has already been through. Has it been colored before? How long ago? What was used? Why? These are all questions they might ask you. Even matters such as your styling routine or whether you’re a swimmer might be discussed, all in a bid to figure out what formulas will work with your locks, and whether your hair is in good enough condition for a lightener.
UNDERLYING PIGMENT
When hair is colored – especially if a lightener, like Blondor, is used – some of the underlying pigments in your hair may be exposed. You’ll learn more about this below when we take a look at the Lightening Curve, but underlying pigment is an important factor when choosing a color, too. Will your colorist work with it, or work to correct it?
- THE LIGHTENING CURVE
So, let’s venture further into underlying pigment. The Lightening Curve, seen below, is essentially a diagram that helps colorists determine the correct shade for their client’s hair.
For example, if you’re naturally a deep brunette 3/ but you want to add a few subtle highlights, lifting ribbons of hair to a 6/ will alter and brighten the underlying pigment, creating the perfect base for a deep caramel toner. Meanwhile, if you’re naturally a golden level 8/ but you’re craving a platinum ‘do, you’d need to be lifted to a very pale yellow 10/, before a toner is applied to counteract the yellow. That brings us to the next step…
- THE COLOR CIRCLE
While the Lightening Curve is helpful in understanding hair depth and shade, the Color Circle is used to figure out the toner required to complement or correct tones in the hair. It’s all based on color theory; the understanding that colors opposite each other on the color wheel will neutralize one another, while side-by-side colors will create a whole new hue.
*This product might be purchased at UNI Cosmetics stores.
