Over the past few years, there has been a war in the hair-care industry against sulfates and the suds they sow. Just walk down any beauty aisle and you’re bombarded with labels that tout “sulfate-free” products. Sulfate-free is the better, good-for-your-hair option, the prevailing wisdom says, because it gives a gentler clean. Even if you don’t intentionally subscribe to the sulfate-free movement, you’re almost suckered into buying that way because it’s so commonplace. But is it all a marketing gimmick, or is sulfate-free really the way to be?
What are sulfates—and why do people say you should avoid them?
Put simply, sulfates are what make shampoo sudsy. Put technically, they are a type of surfactant (which is a term for various detergents, emulsifiers, and foaming agents) that attracts both oil and water. Sulfates allow grime and dead skin cells to be removed from your skin and scalp and washed away with water, says Eric Schweiger, M.D., founder of Schweiger Dermatology Group.
The downside is that they can also strip natural oils from the scalp and hair. That can make hair dry and brittle. And if your scalp is sensitive, sulfates can cause irritation like redness, dryness, and itching. That’s where the bad reputation comes in. (Those scary rumors that sulfates, particularly sodium lauryl sulfate, can cause cancer are false; there isn’t any scientific evidence to support those claims, says Ginger King, a cosmetic chemist in New Jersey.)
The three most commonly used sulfate compounds within the beauty industry are sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and ammonium laureth sulfate. (You’ll find these in pretty much any cosmetic that foams, from facial cleanser to toothpaste.) Each type of sulfate is different in intensity, but all can be irritating to your skin or hair. The “-eth” versions (laureth sulfate) are milder on your skin and hair than the “-yl” version, says King. “And the ammonium version is milder than the sodium version.”
Some people might really benefit from sulfate-free shampoo—but for most people, sulfates are NBD
People with dyed or kinky hair should strongly consider ditching sulfates because they’re pretty harsh cleansers. “Using sulfates on color-treated hair can be too strong and will likely strip the color,” says King. I gave up sulfates years ago, and my color lasts much longer.
People with dry or frizzy hair should also consider sulfate-free shampoo. Sulfate-free cleansers maintain the natural oils on the scalp and hair, which ultimately leaves your hair with more moisture. I can attest to that too; I’ve also noticed my tight curls stay more hydrated now. If you have sensitive skin or eczema, ditching sulfates might cut down on scalp irritation, and King warns sulfates can be “too strong” for fine, delicate hair.
“It is possible to get hair clean without sulfates," says Schweiger, but they really do a good job of getting the hair and scalp clean with minimal effort. “With the lather from a sulfate, you don’t have to work as hard to cleanse your scalp. With a product that does not contain sulfates, you will need to do more of a rigorous massage on the scalp in order to get it clean.”
Using products with cocobetaines (a surfactant derived from coconut oil) is a sulfate-free option, and it’s slightly milder than sulfates. It doesn’t lather as much, which can be great if you have drier, curly hair.
Schweiger says most people will be fine with a sulfate shampoo, and for some it can be the most efficient way to clean the hair and scalp. For instance, if your hair is on the oilier side or if you have dandruff, a sulfate shampoo will help absorb and get rid of the oils in your scalp. (Oil can make dandruff worse and vice versa.) There's also the way a good sudsy shampoo feels. If you like getting all lathered up, you might not enjoy the sulfate-free shower experience as much—less bubbling, more scrubbing. You can always give it a shot and see what you think. But if your regular sulfate shampoo gives you good results and you don't notice dryness or have scalp irritation, go ahead and keep sudsing away.
Source: refinery29.com
